Besalu, Spain Oct 24

After visiting Girona, we went about 10 miles to the northwest to a town called Besalu. 

First image is as we cross under the tower and then walk the long  Viejo Bridge to the town. Some archeological work had been done there in the past few decades. Jews had lived in the town from the 11th century to near the end of the 15th century. 

 
Second image is of the bridge from the Jewish section of town. The bridge was built in the 11th century over a previous Roman bridge that was lower. The bridge was rebuilt in the 14th century, damaged in the 20th century during the civil war and repaired after that. The river is the Fluvia. 

In 1254 James I (the King who presided over the disputation of 1263) gave permission for the expansion of the Jewish community in Besalu. This was part of a program that appointed Jewish tax collectors and financial administrators to the town (and apparently this worked as the revenue to the King increased as a result). Subsequent Kings increased Jewish legal rights in the city and the Jewish population of the city (about 200 at the time) was protected from the anti Jewish pogroms of 1391 that occurred in a half dozen Spanish cities and dozens of towns and villages.

However, the persecutions began again in the 15th century and by the mid 15th century there were few Jews in the city (the rest of the population had decreased also). Then there was the expulsion of 1492.

Third image is of all the family on a porch where a synagogue may have been.



In 1964, the mikvah* of the Jewish community was discovered and subsequently archeological work was done.  This is one of the most well preserved and largest medieval mikvahs in the world.
 
The fourth image is of the mikvah (from myeclecticimages.com). Personally, it seemed to me to be much bigger than would be needed by a community of only 200 people.


Sometimes, Besalu is called the most important city you've never heard of.  It is very well preserved as it was probably nearly abandoned from the time of the great plagues in the 16th century until the 20th century. 

After Besalu we went to Barcelona and had a meal at the Maccabi restaurant on the Rambla which is a main shopping avenue of the city. This is one of two kosher restaurants in the city and the only actual kosher restaurant we  used during the trip (other than those connected with a hotel). 

We also drove by the statue honoring Columbus (fifth image from Gettyimages) whose first voyage to the new world must have had something to do with Barcelona although I am not sure what that was. The voyage was, of course, begun in the year of the expulsion.

After supper and seeing the statue we went to the Barcelona airport and took a plane to the Granada airport. 

* mikvah is a Jewish ritual bath basin. It is used for the monthly immersion of women after menstruation, for conversion and for washing a dead body before burial.